Long Trail End-to-End 2019

Updated: Jun 26, 2021


Living life as a New Yorker, I don't have a car. While this is fine for city living, it makes getting to and from trail heads logistically difficult. Five buses kind of difficult.


Today J-Dub and I started our day at beautiful Port Authority in Midtown Manhattan. We took a 7:45am bus to Springfield making our first connection of the day on an Albany bound bus.


This all went surprisingly well. In fact, we were ahead of schedule on both buses which is something that doesn't normally happen on interstate bus rides. Perhaps I should have guessed that this would lead to trouble later (as all things must balance out), but delighted by the time we set off into Pittsfield.


Our first stop was to our old neighborhood ice cream shop, Dairy Cone. This was the place we'd go to after games, on lazy summer afternoons, or just for a quick treat. In my opinion, it's still the best soft serve there is, though admittedly all that sugar does have hints of nostalgia for me that makes it extra sweet.

J-Dub a white male with a full backpacking pack on walks on the sidewalk next to the red and white Dairy Cone ice cream stand in Pittsfield, MA

We passed through our old neighborhood, Morningside, and made our way to a new fixture: the Berkshire Roots dispensary. Having been to some other dispensaries in the state, believe the hype! The staff were all friendly, helpful and kind and the store itself had some beautiful decor.


Our plan after these stops was to take a Lyft or Uber to the trailhead. Seemed simple enough. I've managed to find rides in locales much more rural than the city of Pittsfield, but when I checked there were no cars available. This was unexpected and threw a wrench in our timeline, but with nothing to do but press on we got on the Berkshire Regional Bus line the BBus, and made our way to Williamstown.


The first shelter on the Long Trail heading North is the Seth Warner Shelter. From the bus stop including the Pine Cobble Trail to access the LT, we'd be 6.8 miles away with about two hours of sunlight and no trail legs. It became apparent we needed a new plan.


We considered heading to the Sherman Brook campsite on the Appalachian Trail in Massachusetts, it'd be a bit closer to a bus stop and then give us a running start the next day. But even that would be a two mile hike and with the bubble of AT thru-hikers in the area there'd be no guarantee of tenting sites.


On the bus to North Adams, J-Dub remembered that a local art gallery in Williamstown The Mountain Goat Artisans allowed hikers to camp for free in their backyard. Or at least, they used to. He had stayed there a few years back when he hiked the Taconic Crest Trail.


A short phone call with the owner assured that they do, in fact, still allow hikers to stay! So our plan was set.


It took $10.00 each and three bus transfers (a total of five in eleven hours on the day), but we found ourselves in downtown Williamstown, a preppy, brick lined, New England college town.


After a quick walk to the gallery we set up in the backyard, able to get our tents up in between evening storms.The yard is really quite lovely and the situation turned out as well as possible. The Hoosic River runs behind it. We were also able to hit the town for some fish and chips at the Purple Pub! An added bonus before digging into our dehydrated food.




LT Mileage: 0


Slow soggy start out of Williamstown, MA. A surprise morning storm got most our gear wet as we were breaking camp. Since we were in the backyard at the Mountain Goat we didn't have any tree cover, so it really poured down on us.


We got coffee, breakfast, and a new trash bag for me at Tunnel City Coffee. I needed the trash bag for my sleeping bag. I usually always pack two: one to line my bag the other as added protection for my sleeping bag, but I made the mistake of only packing one as a liner. The barista was kind enough to give me one for free along with our meals!


Then up to the Pine Cobble Trail. From Williamstown Center it was a pretty straight shot about 8 miles. One tricky thing to note is that at the crossing of Cole Avenue and North Hoosac a sign seems to suggest walking down North Hoosac when in actuality you should: continue up Hill on Pine Cobble Road (obvious enough it would seem, but it's tricky) past a community gate, follow the veer right, and in a few yard you'll find the trail head on your left.

The Pine Cobble is teal blazed a local hiking trail maintained by the Williamstown Rural Land Foundation.

While the trail leads out to Ephs Outlook, a cool view of the valley below on a clear day, we continued to connect to the end of the Massachusetts AT and reach the Vermont border.

At the border we bumped into a Southbound AT thru-hiker named Teacher who was kind enough to pause and take the obligatory southern terminus picture of us.


Babysteps (left) and Jdub (right) two young white men stand next to the wooden southern terminus sign of the Long Trail on the Vermont and Massachusetts border. It's a hazy, rainy day in the forest and big puddle is in foreground in front of the sign.
Long Trail southern terminus

The sky started to break which was nice and we made it pretty swiftly into the Seth Warner shelter where we decided to stop, dry our gear, our feet, and our... well everything.

At the shelter we met Jim, a Green Mountain Club trail maintainer who has been working this section of trail for 16 years.


We chatted as he packed up and we unpacked and he gave us some good local news and tips on upcoming towns and shelters.

He also told us about a plant that is, "the best natural toilet paper in the New England forest."


While I've since forgotten the name of it, I remember learning from him that it's a native plant which readily roots in the parts of trail often eroded by all the foot traffic and wet weather. Oh, and in terms of toilet paper: tested and approved.


Shortly after Jim left, we moved our operation and set up camp, wanting to get our tents up before any afternoon storms popped up and made things wet again.


Jim, an older white man in khaki work gear, carries a weed whacker along a trail to clear it of debris. The brown, dirt trail recently cleared behind him is distinct from the green, fern and shrub filled, ground cover on either side.

As the afternoon and rain went on we met groups of AT thru-hikers, both southbound and northbound. The most curious of which was a couple with a hiking dog who were sponsored as light weight dog food ambassadors. In return for the food they had to post Instagram photos of their dog on the trail. The dog was, admittedly, very Instagramable.


It became clear from the amount of hikers in the tent site and shelter that for the first 100 miles we'd be hiking in a big AT bubble.

LT Mileage: 2.8


Slippery, misty start to day two, but with no rain I couldn't complain!


Out of Seth Warner we came upon what the GMC guide book calls an old beaver pond. While this is probably true, what it doesn't mention is that those generations of beavers engineered the Hoover Dams of beaver dams.


Beaver dam covered in green shrubs and pond plants makes a half circle in the dark water of the pond on a misty morning along the Vermont Long Trail.

After passing this feat of engineering, we had a climb up to Consultation Peak then and some ups and downs around more ponds to complete the 7.2 miles to Congdon Shelter. We stopped for an early lunch there and noticed someone decided to add a homey touch with a small, Thomas Kinkade-esque cottage painting above the shelter's window.


After our break at Congdon we hiked up Harmon Hill, catching it light and bright at 1pm, a nice contrast to the rainy skies we started with. I also stopped here to take care of some blisters that all the soggy days had given me.


Babysteps exposed toe pulled up through a sock. A big piece of white medical tape is on his big toe and smaller pieces of tape can be seen on other toes. His boots and muddy socks are clearly on wet ground


A nice, mountain breeze followed us the rest of the day and kept us cool as we walked down and up the steep climbs from VT 9. The trail often drops in elevation to a road crossing then immediately climbs back up after the road crossing and this was one such, very steep, occasion.


We ended the day at the Melville Nauheim shelter, which was at the top of our road climb. resting before climbing Mt. Glastonbury tomorrow.

LT Mileage: 15.9


Foggy climb up Glastonbury, our first real beast of a climb on the trail. While not our highest climb, we gained about 600 feet over 6 miles making it a long, sweaty climb.


We were joined for about half the ascent by a young hiker named Pec who had just finished a thru-hike of the PTC (so named because he tried carrying Pecorino cheese through the California desert). The funds for his PTC hike had been a college graduation gift from his parents, but now that he had a job on the East Coast he was trying to adjust and was taking a short weekend hike to see what the AT/LT was like.


Pausing at Goddard Shelter we watered up and met some day hikers and AT thru-hikers all making their way up the mountain. Fortunately the sky cleared up just long enough for us to get a view off the fire tower.


Cloudy view off the fire tower on Mount Glastonbury along the Long Trail and Appalachian trail. The tops of pine trees and distant Green Mountain range are below a thick front of gray, fluffy rain clouds.
Cloudy view of Glastonbury firetower

As we were descending the tower though it started sprinkling and a few miles back on trail that light sprinkle erupted into a cold down pour.


Soaked and cold we rolled into Kid Gore Shelter and changed into the dry, cold weather layers we packed.


This was probably my lowest point on the trail. Three days in and I now was as soaked and frozen as I was on day zero. To add insult to injury. I had just changed into dry socks in an effort to double-sock and help my blister situation... but now both my socks were soaked.

I was honestly doubting myself. What I was doing out on trail? Why was I letting my feet get ruined? Can I finish this?


In that state of mind, we had a duo of optimistic Nobo AT hikers come into the shelter to warm up and snack. Despite their Katahdin deadline this pair was focused and positive, "look, at this point I'm not just going to quit because I got a little too cold one night," one of them joked about their own predicament and this attitude brightened my own.


After this duo another LT end-to-ender named Gingersnap came in for the night. Like J-Dub, he had completed the LT before. Their conversation about favorite parts of the trail still ahead turned my mind forward rather than inward and I went to bed more excited than uncertain.

LT Mileage: 28.5


The sunrise at Kid Gore was spectacular. The shelter faces eastward into a valley and with the day starting on that beautiful note I set off in high spirits.


Dramatic sunrise with pinks, oranges, and purples at Kid Gore shelter on the Vermont Long Trail. A single thin cloud is seen coming in from the right of the photo and distant mountains are outlined in the distance in the morning light.
Sunrise at Kid Gore

Our next mountain to climb was Stratton. Another large, long climb with switchbacks around the mountain that seemed to go on and on.


But the top was so worth it. On a previous section hike this top had been clouded in, but today it was clear and a climb up to the fire tower revealed the trail ahead and behind us.

This fire tower is famous on the trail, as it was from this vantage point that Benton McKaye looked out and conceptualized the Appalachian Trail, seeing the chain of mountains and believing that they could and should be linked.


Heading down the mountain, we considered staying at Stratton Pond Shelter, but were still technically a day behind our schedule after the bus travel day. Feeling good and with sunlight left, we ate dinner at the pond and pressed on into the Lye Brook Wilderness where we found a tranquil place to camp close to the Winhall River.


Winhall River on the Long Trail. A flowing river with slick, light gray rocks framed on either side by the deep green of pine trees. The river is on both the Long Trail and Appalachian Trail in Vermont.
Winhall River

LT Mileage: 45.8


By our fifth day we were starting to run a bit low on snacks. We had plenty of meals so we weren't going to starve, but when you're craving a chocolate protein bar, instant mashed potatoes just aren't the same.


With this motivation driving us we pushed on into Manchester Center where we had our first mail drop sent. First we stopped at Up for Breakfast which we had heard about from a day hiker on top of Stratton. The pancakes didn't disappoint.



Two stacks of pancakes on colorful plates with powdered sugar and clumps of better. Red diner coffee cups are filled next to a small silver pitcher of Vermont maple syrup.
What dreams are made of...

Along with pancakes and our mail drop, I also needed rain pants.


We checked the Mountain Goat (no relation) an outfitter in town, as well as some of the outlets. We struck out, either because of price or product, until Eddie Bauer. Now, I never really fancied myself an Eddie Bauer kind of guy, but as an outdoor brand they still carry some pretty good gear and at an outlet sale price, these pants were a screaming deal; just what the doctor ordered for cold for wet mornings.


Not wanting to stay in town we got a ride out of town and went up Bromley. It was a hard three miles up with our packs now completely refilled with food. At the very summit of Bromley, the ski patrol allows hikers to stay in their warming hut.


Ski Patrol warming hut on top of Bromley on the AT and LT. A fully enclosed, trailer style structure with a wooden porch. A gray sky and distant mountains can be seen in the background.
Bromley Warming Hut

Not only was this incredibly convenient as an enclosed shelter, but it also offered panoramic views of sunset and sunrise.


J-Dub, small male frame, sits in a rain coat at sunset at the top of a small hill. The hill is rocky and over grown with grass. The pale blue and pink sky frames pine trees in the background.
J-Dub waiting for the light

Bright yellow and orange light from the sun streams in over mountain peaks, blacked out from the brightness of the light.
Sunrise on Bromley

LT Mileage: 57.9


Our sunrise however was dampened by thick rain clouds.

We got an early start and pushed hard, wanting to get over the steep, rocky cliff walk of Baker's Peak before any rain hit and made the rock slick.


Babysteps uses trekking poles to hike up the steep, rocky slop of Bakers Peak. On Either side of the rocky section of the Long Trail there are small green trees. In the hazy background mountains and their valley can be seen.
Up Baker's Peak

Once up and over we stopped at Lost Pond Shelter and let a series of afternoon storms pass over. The shelter became hectic as other hikers came in and out to avoid the weather.

The sun started poking back out in the afternoon and we decided to push to Little Rock Pond. An amazing, amazing pond tucked between mountains where a lone loon called out throughout the night in that eerie, mesmerizing howl.


Little Rock Pond on the Long Trail and Appalachian Trail in Vermont. A small bit of mist rises off the pond and the sky and dark green on the mountain in front of the pond are reflected in the water.
Little Rock Pond

After doing a bit of math, I realized that this marked my 500 mile mark for Appalachian Trail section hiking. I couldn't have picked a more perfect location.


LT Mileage: 74.2


Slow start out of camp the next morning even though we woke up at our usual 5:00am time. We had done a couple big pushes to make up for the lost time riding buses and for whatever reason our bodies decided today would be the day we paid.


Babysteps walking in the center of a wooden bridge on the Long Trail. On the sides of the bridge steel suspension cables can be seen. The background is all green from tree leaves.

Unfortunately for our bodies we had two big climbs back to back. First a quick 500+ foot elevation gain up White Cliffs where we passed an expansive cairn garden.


Rock formations in a carin garden on White Cliffs along the Long Trail. The rocks form two spirals, one around a tree, in the orange, brown soil of the area.

Rock formations in a carin garden on White Cliffs along the Long Trail. The smaller rocks are stacked together to make towers. In the background morning light breaks through tall trees.

Rock formations in a carin garden on White Cliffs along the Long Trail. There are many small towers of various shapes and sizes. None fit together perfectly, but are a mix of big, small, round, flat, pointed, and dull rocks.

Rock formations in a carin garden on White Cliffs along the Long Trail. A small tower of rocks leads up to one large flat rock balanced perfectly. On top of that rock two smaller rocks are also balanced.

Then down a switchbacked 1000 foot climb up Bear Mountain to the Minerva Hinchey shelter where we stopped to rest and let the afternoon heat pass.


Sunlit trail going up Bear Mountain on the long Trail. The clear dirt path is border by green ferns and moss. Dense trees stand as the next layer, but here sun breaks through adding a shine to everything.

A cup of coffee got us motivated and we made our way from Minerva Hinchey up the Claredon Gorge, a rocky, steep ascent that would be my first little taste of what the Northern Green Mountains had in store.


Babysteps blurred in action as he hikes up the rock scramble of Claredon Gorge. The footing is steep with logs and rocks. The perspective of the photo shows it would be a long way down if he were to slip.

At the Claredon Shelter we bumped into out first big group of Long Trail hikers. There was Bill, who was ending his hike after Killington. Adam and Rachel, a couple from the Burlington Area and Meathands and Trail Brains from the Waitsfield area. Both couples seemed to be fairly new Vermonters who wanted to know or see more of the state. In many ways the Long Trail is a kind of Vermont clout, a rite of passage or perhaps pilgrimage for the Green Mountain State.


Babysteps on a suspension bridge made wooden planks and fencing over the Claredon Gorge. He is looking down into the river on a sunny day with the green of a forest behind him.

LT Mileage: 87.8


Killington today, all four thousand plus feet of it.


First came the final climb out of the Claredon Gorge, another little rocky up, though nowhere near as steep or tough as the initial climb.


Then some level road and river walking which led into pine forest. Really quite a lovely stretch. Finally the ascent. We had heard Cooper Lodge, the shelter on top, was dry so we got water at the Governor Clement shelter and chatted with two women hiking southbound on the LT. We were starting to hit our own little LT bubble of hikers as we neared the split with the At.


Chit-chat done, up Little Killington we went, the first of the two peaks.


It started relatively tame, but soon became a narrow climb. We balanced from pine root to pine root to stay on trail, all the while looking down the slope of the mountain between the wide canopy of the pine forest.


Once up Little Killington there was a ridge walk and fairly quick uphill to the Cooper Lodge, the trail's highest point on the mountain. We chatted with another LT hiking couple who came all the way from Austria for an end-to end hike!

We took the quick but incredibly steep 0.2 brought us to the true summit of Killington.


Sunny day with big fluffy clouds. The photo looks out, the tops of pine trees giving the perspective that it's very high up, at the Green Mountain range from the summit of Kilington along Vermont's Long Trail.

This was a pretty crowded point as tons of day hikers and guided tours were also summiting by following the AT/LT up.


On top of that traffic there's also a gondola which ferries people up to view the summit, mountain bike down, and visit the lodge. The lodge is a swanky cafeteria style restaurant with windows for walls to give diners a view of the whole valley.


The view was was beautiful, but the food was expensive, so after snacks and coffee we pressed on heading down Killngton to spend the night at the Inn on the Long Trail where a Guiness and Veggie Burger capped off the first 100 miles of the Long Trail for me.


White and black font on the back of the menu for the Inn at Long Trail

At the bar we chatted more with Adam and Rachel, getting to know the hikers around us.

LT Mileage: 105.6


In the morning we went into Rutland, taking The Bus with Adam and Rachel. The Bus is part of the Marble Valley Regional Transit District. The big, bubbly, hippie lettering and the sound of The Clash as we entered set the tone.


In Rutland Adam and Rachel were staying at a hiker hostel run by the Twelve Tribes known as the Yellow Deli, we had some chores however. First we bounced our mail drops ahead to Stowe. We had a lot of food left over, so rather than pick up our mail drop we bounced it ahead to Stowe.


The post office will let you bounce priority boxes for free to another destination, which is convenient for any hikers in positions like ours. While we were initially just going to shop in Stowe for the last leg of the trip, now we could have our groceries covered.


We got some food at the Yellow Deli, said goodbye to Adam and Rachel and hiked a short 1.4 miles, past Maine Junction where the AT and LT officially split to the new Tucker Johnson shelter.


With bad weather in the forecast and a late start out of town we decided to stay put, make a fire, and take it easy. On the shelter we only had one other hiker, a SOBO LT hiker named Nemo. This was a welcome change from the shared AT section where shelters and campsites could get crowded.


LT Mileage: 107


Thick fog held up until about eleven for our first day on only the LT. I immediately noticed the trail was more rugged than the AT. It was narrower, steeper, and over grown. Not mention blazed less frequently.


We pushed past Bolston Rest where a family was just waking up for breakfast as we passed by camp.


Hiking through the mist was a bit mind numbing, as if the trail was playing a kind of trick. Not only were any vistas out of the question, but it was difficult to see the trail more then few feet out!


Moving as well as we could through the conditions, we stopped for lunch at the David Logan shelter where we chatted with an older, southbound LT hiker about the Benton McKaye Trail.


Babysteps uses trekking poles to balance on thick brown logs which form a makeshift bridge over a stream on the Long Trail. The scenery is full of rich greens and grays from the moss, rocks, and plants around the stream.

Leaving lunch, the mist finally started to lift around and we finished out at Sunrise Shelter, beating out a late afternoon storm which felt like a nice win.

However, a full shelter of LT hikers confirmed that we were in fact in a kind of bubble of summer LT hikers.

LT Mileage: 124.6


Waking early at sunrise we followed the gentle slope of an old ski trail down to Brandon Gap. Taking a .1 side trail to the vista at the Great Cliffs we got well rewarded for our morning efforts!


Then up and down steep mountains and gaps! Lots of blow downs in this section made it feel as much like a tough mudder as hiking. We lifted, bent, squeezed, and lunged our body over dozens of trees.


We passed the Middlebury snowball which was novel and also offered a nice view of the valley.


Babysteps smiles in a selfie style picture. He is wearing glasses, white hat, and purple shirt sitting on the ski chair of an empty ski lift. The rest of the lift can be seen behind him.
Selfie!

At the Sunrise Shelter a SOBO end-to-ender named Fun Sized mentioned female moose st Boyce shelter and on our way by the cow walked right across the trail in front of us!

Aside from the Moose we pretty much had the trail to ourselves. The bubble seemed either ahead or behind us by a few miles now and we ended our day at Skyline Lodge with the whole cabin to ourselves. Reaching our halfway(ish) point with a view of Skyline Pond at sunset.


Skyline Lodge on the Long Trail, a fully enclosed shelter that looks like a log cabin. The porch has an overhang where clothes have been hung out and there are small windows in the building as well.
Skyline Lodge

LT Mileage: 140.5


Setting out from Skyline Lodge we were determined to make it out of the Breadloaf Wilderness.


J-DUb entering at a trailhead in Breadloaf Wilderness. A white wooden National Forest sign denotes the area with a small map below it. His frame is enclosed by the fresh green of a forest in afternoon light.

The trail had been a muddy, rugged challenge with few vistas to reward us for battling back pine trees and scrambling around blow downs.



We managed to wait out an early morning storm at the Emily Proctor shelter, but after that simply put our heads down and climbed our way out of Breadloaf and halfway up Mt. Abraham to the Battell Shelter.

LT Mileage: 154.5


We left Battell a little earlier than usual. We'd been waking up at 5:00am every morning, breaking camp, and hiking. This early start time not only had us hiking for sunrise, but insured we could beat most afternoon storms or at least pause for them with some good miles covered.


J-Dub wanted to be on the summit of Mt. Abraham for sunrise and after a tough, rocky scramble to the top it was obvious why. This was my first view above treeline and it was awe-inspiring.


We stopped early at Stark's Nest, another ski patrol warming hut. This hut had a vast history of ski culture in the Mad River Valley which was cool to read through.


A wooden table full of journals, ski memorabilia, and a map  of Mad River Valley in Vermont

We thought about staying, but as the shelter grew more and more crowded, we hiked on. At first we thought about going into Waitsfield, where we needed to resupply the next day anyway, but found a spot to camp on lower ski trail/warming hut of Mad River Glen where we had an amazing eastward view.


To get water for the site though we had to go back up to the Theron Dean shelter. On our way back we took the Dean Cave bypass trail which was a fun bit of cave crawling and gap lunging.


The open canopy of the ski trail made the stars lovely and the streak of the Milky Way was faint, but present.

LT Mileage: 162.5


We woke up for a wonderful sunrise, then broke camp and headed down to the Appalachian Gap at VT 17. The descent was steep and my first introduction to rebar ladders!


Babysteps holds onto his backpacking pack in the back of truck hitchhiking into the town. The background is blurred from motion.

Getting into Waitsfield from VT 17 was simple enough and as we went about our chores we were pleasantly surprised to come across Adam and Rachel at Mad Taco, a restaurant we had been hearing about for the past forty miles or so.


This was going to be their final day on trail so we passed the afternoon with them at the Lawson Liquids Brewery.


Three hikers with large backapcks walk a wooden footpath over a lawn toward Lawson's Liquids Brewery in Waitsfield, Vermont

Saying our farewells (for now), J-Dub and I headed to our rooms at the Hyde Away Inn, ate dinner, organized our packs, and rested up before heading north.

Canada bound!

LT Mileage: 164.3

After a delicious pancake breakfast at the Hyde Away Inn we took the Inn's shuttle back to the trail head.

Two plates of pancakes with berries, powdered sugar, maple syrup cups and eggs. Dark green mugs are filled with coffee as well.

As a courtesy to their hiking guests, a shuttle (along with breakfast and laundry) is included in the cost of the room stay. The owner was incredibly kind and we chatted about skiing, the economics of inn owning in Vermont, and other bits small talk until we reached Appalachian Gap and hit the trail again.


The climb right out of town was a rude awakening! Right off the bat there were rock scrambles, made slick from yesterday’s rain, and it seemed like we were only going straight up or straight down on the 5.5 mile hike to Cowless Cove Shelter.

Babysteps scaling down slick moss covered rocks. Using his hands he holds onto a thick tree root.
Babysteps slowly climbing down a slick, rocky portion of the Long Trail. He's using his legs and arms to find tree roots and cracks in the rocks for grip.

The skies opened up for a quick cloud burst on our way to Cowless Cove and we encountered a southbound hiker who warned us that the scrambles up ahead for the next ten miles or so could have, “serious consequences” in all this wet weather.

Small hump of a mountain filled with green trees covered in haze and cloud along the Vermont Long Trail.
Babysteps holds onto a small tree and reaches out a foot to find a solid step descending a slick, rocky part of the Long Trail. The background is bright from sun hitting off clouds behind him.

Coupled with the fairly ominous warning from a stranger, a sign in Cowles Cove Shelter warned that Burnt Rock Mountain and the next stretch of trail to Montclair Glen Lodge could be extremely dangerous when wet and that even though it was only about five miles it could take five hours!


We sat in the shelter with Gogurt and Mudflap, a couple hiking end-to-end northbound we had briefly met at the grocery store in Waitsfield. As we snacked in the shelter the sun began to break through. This was a nice relief, but I’d be lying if I didn’t say that at this point I was pretty damn scared.


We all waited a good amount of time for the sun to dry what it could then Gogurt and Mudflap hiked on, followed shortly by J-Dub and myself.

Babysteps uses both hands to steady himself down a rocky passage of trail. The white blaze of the Vermont Long Trail can be seen painted on the gray rock near him. The perspective of the photo shows the treacherous drop below.
Babysteps keeps a careful eye on his hands as he plans a route down a rocky portion of the Long Trail.

While being potentially dangerous and at times scary, yes, the hike through Burnt Rock was also incredibly fun; something the sign failed to mention. There were hard scrambles, a ladder, and one section where you had to quasi-repel using a knotted rope! This was a whole new kind of hiking style for me. We had hit some ladders coming down to Appalachian Gap, but those were more of an anomaly. It became clear to me that from now on these features would be an integral part of the trail and honestly, once I got used to them, they were exciting obstacles to overcome!

Babysteps steps onto a metal ladder to descend a portion of the Long Trail. The ladder is surrounded by a slick, mossy cliff.
Babysteps pauses to evaluate the trail down a steep incline on the Long Trail. Either side of the trail is deep wooded and the way down is smooth rock.
Babysteps uses trekking poles to test the depth of water while he balances on a downed log over a massive mud pit on the Vermont Long Trail.

Along with these challenges, the views were panoramic. We weren’t as high up as other climbs we’d done or would do, but the “Burnt” aspect of Burnt Rock meant that the walk was relatively clear with the exception of small stretches in the forest.

Babysteps hikes up a smooth cliff face on the Long Trail. Behind him is a vista of the Green Mountains. The unobstructed view gives an idea of the size and length of the range.
Babystep props himself up before ascending a rocky portion of the Long Trail.
The bald top of Camel's Hump can be seen in the distance. In the foreground is the green, forested tops of other smaller mountains.
Distant view of Camel's Hump

We met back up with Gogurt and Mudflap at Montclair Glen and while we had previously tossed around the idea of just getting up and over Camel’s Hump, we reached Montclair tired and ready to rest. The sign had been right and it had taken us quite awhile to navigate the stretch of trail between the two shelters.


As the day passed at Montclair we met Mountain Goat and Hannah Bear, two fellow end-to-enders, as well as a slew of day hikers and section hikers using Montclair Glen as a base camp for Camels Hump, just the same as the rest of us.

LT Miles: 174.9


We woke up early with Mountain Goat and prepped for Camel’s Hump. While Mountain Goat might have been an early riser like J-Dub and I, he was also more of trail runner, with plans to do a twenty-four mile day! This difference aside, we enjoyed a hot cup of coffee with him before setting off to ascend the Hump in a brisk, cloudy morning.

A sunrise view on the trail up Camel's Hump. A thick layer of cloud forces only a few streams of bright sunlight into the valley, keeping the trees in the foreground a very dark shade of green.
Morning on the way up Camel's Hump

This climb was one of, if not the, most exciting I’d ever done. It started off fairly standard, just difficult, rocky hiking, but as we neared the edge of the tree line we could feel the pull of the wind through the thinning pines. J-Dub made the call to jacket up so we quickly put our rain coats on and continued on toward the summit, which was entirely clouded in!

Rocky crags surrounded by cloud making it difficult to see. This photo gives the point of view of J-Dub and Babysteps in their morning hike up Camel's Hump.

We followed the white blazes painted under our feet as best we could and right as we were rounding the summit we heard a loud, “WOOHOO!” shouted by Mountain Goat who was only a few steps behind us, so we replied with our own. It was an amazing moment of camaraderie, the kind that only comes from a group of people committed to climbing a mountain at six in the morning.

Babysteps in full rain gear uses trekking poles to steady himself on the slick, gray rock going up Camel's Hump on the Long Trail. The background of the photo is covered in thick white, gray, clouds.
Babysteps smiling while hiking on the gray, rocky surface of Camel's Hump. Behind him another figure can be made out, but everything is shrouded in thick gray, white clouds.

We all met at the summit and exchanged phones and cameras for photos then said farewell to Mountain Goat as he, literally, ran off into the cloud. J-Dub and I moved a bit slower, in fact we snacked and waited a bit on and around the summit hoping that the sun might burn off the cloud for a view.

Babysteps (left) and J-Dub (right) stand together for a photo on the clouded in summit of Camel's Hump

We made our way down the mountain at a fairly slow clip, stopping for water at the Bamforth Ridge shelter, but pressing on since it was still a bit too early to stop for the day. On our way out of the shelter we bumped into Mudflap and Gogurt again. They had plans to head into Waterbury when we hit the road walk section. While J-Dub and I had contemplated heading into Waterbury (and more importantly the Ben & Jerry’s factory) we decided to take a pass on it having spent a good deal of time and money experiencing Waitsfield.

A thin treeline right below a gray sheet of clouds on Camel's Hump. Past the cloud one can see a sunny mountain valley.
Babysteps steadying himself on a sheer, gray rock on the descent down Camel's Hump. A sheet of cloud is still thick above him and below him one mark the beginning of treeline in thin, green pine trees.
Babysteps squeezing between rocks on the descent down Camel's Hump

After a bit of steep downhill hiking we reached the road walk. While the terrain was flat, we hit it right at midday. Going from road, to farm fields, to the new Winooski River suspension bridge (which was very nice), back onto road, all under the sun proved incredibly exhausting and by the time we re-entered the forest at the base of Bolton Mountain we were pretty wiped out.

Wooden Long Trail sign painted green with yellow lettering etched in. Below it is a Long Trail North Sign painted brown with white lettering etched in.
Green farm field with small mountains rising behind. It's a sunny day with small, fluffy white clouds in the sky.
Babysteps walking across a small, steel suspension bridge.

We took some time to recuperate, but with nothing to do but press on, we began the two-thousand foot climb up Bolton to Buchanan Shelter.

J-Dub taking a rest. He is seated cross legged with his shirt unbuttoned and items from his pack out, resting on a full, orange stuff sack.

Compared to the scrambles and obstacles of our most recent days, the hike was fairly standard, just steep and steady. However, we had also summited Camel’s Hump that same morning, making this steep steady ascent a killer at the end of the day!

Buchanan Shelter itself was also a .3 off trail…downhill.


While this might not have been bad on a normal day, after pushing ourselves so hard to get up the damn mountain, it felt pretty defeating to know we’d have to start our morning walking up an extra .3 of it again to get to the summit, but that’s the way it goes.

The shelter itself was nice, sliding doors, a front porch, the whole shebang!


We opted to tent in some of the sites around though so that we could get good sleep after such a big day. We had Mansfield in front of us after all…


LT Miles: 192.1


Up early and out of Buchanan we finished off Bolton Mountain and made our way to Puffer Shelter. I was hoping to catch a view off of the shelter as I'd heard how amazing it was from passing southbounders.

Babysteps hiking through a dense forest. While the shapes of rocks can be seen they're covered in moss and ferns making the photo various shades of green and brown.

However, when we got there the view was still clouded in for the morning.


One bright spot however was a hiker who was posted up in the shelter. He had gone out for a large section, but now decided he would just take his time and enjoy it all rather than try to rush through. His lollygagging attitude was refreshing after having a couple days of big, hard miles and, more subconsciously than anything, informed our decision.


Our decision was...Summit Mansfield today or not summit Mansfield today


There were pros and cons to both, as there always are:


Pros: We would be ahead of schedule, we'd have our hardest climb done, it was a cloudy but dry day so no worries about bad weather, we could have pizza for dinner in Stowe


Cons: We were tired, it was cloudy so we might not get views, and did I mention we were tired?